Merlot Merlot the much maligned Merlot

Its that time of year again. Its Merlot month! We do enjoy Merlot month as an excuse to look for and drink this wonderful variety.
The other day while out on a wine adventure a Merlot was tasted that stopped us in our tracks. Not that the previous Merlots from this winery were not good, but this is very very good. The 2011 Joyce Vineyards Estate Merlot is just a great Merlot.

Hey Miles, get stuffed!

Merlot is just a great red wine to drink or enjoy with a meal. Sure, there are flashier wines out there, even flashier Merlots but the Joyce Estate Merlot is pretty spot on. Like that spouse you've been married to for a long time, but are still excited to see naked every night. Light some candles, turn on some 80's New Wave, perhaps Spandau Ballet,
Gold, 
Always believe in your soul 
You've got the power to know 
You're indestructible 
Always believe in, that you are 
Gold (gold)  and embrace this Merlot as it engages your taste buds with layers of dark berry, exotic spices and velvety textures. Ripe blackberry, a little allspice, hint of toasty oak and blueberry compote dance on the palate. Pair this with a special friend with or without food. Clothing optional...

Go by the tasting room in Carmel Valley and taste the Joyce range and find your favorite.

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Kiwi & Koala

#WW 2008 Jacobs Creek Shiaz

This weeks week night wine that stood out as a great taste and price balanced wine is from South Australia. The 2008 Jacobs Creek Shiraz. What a great drinking value wine. Excellent fruit with violets, dark berries and black pepper on the nose. Rich, ripe blackberry, purple plum and spice with a full, fleshy mid-palate. Outstanding depth of fruit flavor supported by subtle coffee like oak notes and fine velvety tannin's with easy soft finish. A very enjoyable and distinctive example of an affordable Australian Shiraz. This medium bodied easy drinking enjoyable inexpensive wine rates **** and a solid 6. Perfect to accompany your week night meals even if you have guests this is good enough to share without hesitation.  Good and very inexpensive! Cheers!

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Kiwi & Koala

Wine but no Picnic at Hanging Rock

As a child I visited this amazing place called Hanging Rock, a distinctive geological formation, 718m above sea level (105m above plain level) on the plain just a few kilometres north of Mount Macedon (dinner the previous night at Mt Macedon Hotel), a former volcano. Best known as the site where a party of schoolgirls disappeared in February of 1900 'Picnic at Hanging Rock' which is the story my Uncle had told the night before. It was a drizzling wet cold day as it can be in Victoria in the winter and I remember being terrified we would not find our way out and further the mystery of this place. It is a very scary place and easy to get lost when you are ten years old.

It was also the rumoured to have been the haunt of bushranger ‘Mad Dog’ Morgan. It was made famous by the classic Australian novel and later movie Picnic at Hanging Rock, the mythic tale of the Valentine’s Day disappearance of a group of schoolgirls and their teacher while visiting Hanging Rock in 1901.

The legend endures, and an air of mystery and intrigue still lingers. This mound of massive granite outcrops is riddled with caves, tunnels and overhanging boulders, its shapes and acoustic echoes enhancing its already spooky reputation. It is a mystical place that is for sure.

This trip the weather was no different and although a few decades later a strange trepidation lingers about wandering around this amazing place. After an hour or so I was done being cold and getting wet and decided that a different adventure at Hanging Rock was in order. Done with the Picnic idea it was off to the Hanging Rock Winery that was just down the road a couple minutes and offered a dry spot to taste wine. Much more my style.

A nice place for a taste and a large selection of wine where almost anyone will find a new favorite. My favorite after careful consideration and a number of revisits was the 2008 Kilfara Pinot Noir.

The Mt Macedon area is a cool place to visit with the Mt Macedon Hotel (pub) for food and drink, the Hanging Rock Winery among others and the Hanging Rock area itself to spend some time feeling like you are back in 1900.

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Kiwi & Koala

The Cellar Door at Hanging Rock Winery

An Adventure at Pisoni Vineyards

So this was to be a breakthrough event for us. We were in a position to taste and report on wines that are very hard to get. To ask the hard questions and get answers from an icon of the industry. Talk to the one who has a passion for wine, and for us reinvented Pinot Noir beyond Sideways.  Access to the one who is in the vineyard, to one who is making the wine. We also had access to the one whose vision and passion, gave life to iconic and sort after grapes and wines that come from these vineyards. We even had access to another individual who is part owner of another winery that is privileged enough to purchase grapes from these amazing vineyards. So how did we do?

E P I C    F A I L !

Yeah nah, your eye’s are not deceiving you. Kiwi and Koala have to apologize because we failed. We had the best intentions but, we were led astray and it just did not really happen. What did happen you may ask?  Well the story goes like this...........

Well we arrived as directed way out in the bush of the Santa Lucia Highlands at 12 noon at  the Pisoni Family Vineyards. It is quite the little oasis, including a waterfall and multiple old style roman cisterns with a stone trough between them all the way to the large pond. It was also a beautiful day! We were greeted by our hosts, The Pisoni family. Gary Pisoni, his wife Margarite, his son and vineyard manager Mark, other son and winemaker Jeff. We were immediately handed a really nice Pinot Rosé by Jeff. The perfect starter for the warm afternoon. The event was primarily for the wine club members of Patz and Hall Winery. So as we started to ponder this lovely Rosé that had been handed us we were lured into trying some of Patz and Hall’s wine. Made with the grapes from one of the Pisoni Vineyards, the first was a 2002 Pinot Noir. This wine was excellent and as we engaged in conversation with Russell the general manager of Patz and Hall, we tried the next one, and then the next one, and then a special Library one. Before we could catch our breath Gary Pisoni runs up and pours us a glass full of something from a heavily dust covered bottle and says “you’re gonna love this”, and we did. We know that those who know us will be surprised but by now any real objective and quantitative analysis was basically just not going to happen. Yes we were getting pissed and we just became a couple of blokes drinking with friends having a BBQ. It was great!

A little bit later James Hall comes up to us a pours a Patz and Hall 1998 Pinot Noir. Now we have always believed that Pinot Noir’s should generally be consumed within about five to seven years of release. Again FAIL! This was still amazingly clear bright and had great fruit quality with a soft mouth feel and a seductively soft long finish. Second glass please!

The venue is a work in progress, and although a lot has been done, Gary has plans for a lot more. The original wine cellar is now a massive dining hall or more accurately halls. After a couple hours eating taco’s and cheeses and salamis and drinking copious amounts of awesome Pinot Noir, Gary instructs everyone to grab a bottle of wine and follow him as we head up to the dining hall. Great long tables lined with empty wine bottles with lit candles on top. Once the 40-50 people are settled with another glass of wine, they then file to the next food table for baked citrus salmon with asparagus, pasta and some BBQ chicken. Awesome! Of course there was Pisoni and Patz and Hall wine flowing constantly.

As the afternoon wound down and the bus load of people left Kiwi and Koala had some time to just talk and hang with Gary. This guy is as passionate about his vines and grapes and the wine it’s turned into as any person we have ever met. After thirty plus years the fire has not dimmed. During the conversation about where the water came from (the sixth well to 400 feet), terroir and micro climates (we know poncy) Gary jumps up and says “let’s go, I’ll show you what I’m talking about”. At that point it was into the famous 1960’s jeep and off on an adventure through Gary’s vision. A little like Mr. Toad’s wild ride with a little Mad Hatter thrown in but with an amazing amount of insight and knowledge of the vineyards and their terroir. Spending time with Gary around the vineyards, his passion is infectious and you can’t help being drawn into it.

Quote of the day from Gary Pisoni “I have three rules to make wine here.  You have to 1)be my friend, 2)make good wine, and 3) pay the bills!

As for the rest of the day, well you had to be there. So as the index fingers are cramping we will just finish by saying, what an amazing day with wonderful people and exceptional wines.

Thanks to Michele for helping with the arrangements and getting us there with great directions. To the Pisoni family for being gracious and generous hosts. We hope at some time to actually do a review of some of their wines, specifically to let you know how good they are and let you all know where to get them.

Cheers,

WineWalkabout
Kiwi and Koala

#WW Wine Review Hungarian Wine, Leányka White wine,

With summer kicking back into gear here in California it just seemed appropriate to pull a nice white out of the wine fridge. While foraging around looking at what was available this little minx called out. Our friends at the Hungarian Wine Show had sent this to us for a tasting and a review. So here is the review.

As this wine was calling to get our attention it was time to seduce this sexy little number out of the wine fridge and go on a date. This is a white that has a seductive smooth body, displaying plenty of nuance and elegance with a lovely mouth feel, supple and graceful, ending with a burst of flavor and a nice persistent finish and as it turns out an enchanting date. 

The good folks at the Hungarian Road Show describe our new love as follows.

Leányka – Traminer – Sauvignon Blanc – Rhine Riesling – Welschriesling
(Leányka, meaning “damsel”, is a Hungarian wine grape variety.)
If we deep look into the eyes of the wine, we first see “the damsel of Almagyar” looking back for us. Her attendants are Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Rhine Riesling, and Welschriesling. All are beauteous, fresh, and youthful, and while each has its individual personality, they move together like a team of cheerleaders.

Not sure we have ever seen the word 'beauteous' used as a descriptor but it is quite accurate and we think it is more a team of exotic dancers rather than cheerleaders. Just going with the theme...

Those two things aside this is a very enjoyable white wine that prefers to be served a bit warmer than some whites at about 58-62 deg so as to let the girls personality loose and not to get locked up (locked, we said locked up not knocked up). 

A very nice **** wine rated a 7 on the scale and a perfect summer wine that will go with Chinese, Thai and even Mexican as well as all the traditional white wine pairings.

A cracking wine, so drink it if you can find it!

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Kiwi & Koala

Wines of Danger

Why are these wines dangerous? Well its not so much that the wines themselves are dangerous, but the act of committing the time and money into the making and selling of them is. There's danger in starting your own label and these winemakers are putting all their money and effort into their wine and hoping against the odds that it works.

Even those that are winemakers or growers or have a full-time job at a larger winery can find it daunting to turn their own label into a success. Beside just making wine the packaging, selling and marketing are all time consuming and take expertise The goal behind the event (this year's was the second) is to help get some marketing exposure from media to the group of small producers using this annual trade and media tasting in San Francisco. That's one of the reasons that Sabrine Rodems, winemaker at Wrath Wines in Monterey County and owner of her own small label, Scratch, has put together a group of like minded label owners called Wines of Danger.

We have attended both and have become supporters for this movement. This years event was held at the lovely, Local Kitchen and Wine Merchant on 330 1st Street, San Francisco. The wines last year really got our attention and were of very high quality and this year was just as impressive. There is a level of excitement when talking to the individual who has it all on the line for what is by most standards very very small production. The total production starts in the hundreds of case range but in all cases (hey look, pun) the cases produced are in the single thousands.

The wines were again good to very good and generally had price points that were well below the quality enjoyment level making them great value. We tried our hardest to taste all the wines and even started by tasting just whites like the pros, but soon fell into tasting the range in front of us, If they offered to put it in the glass we felt obligated to taste it.

It was great to revisit with some of the people from last year and to taste and enjoy their latest releases and to meet new people who were pouring at the event for the first time. Take a look through the list and track these wines down and take an adventure with some Wines of Danger.


Sabrine Rodems the winemaker at Wrath Wines in Monterey County and produces her own label, Scratch is the driving force behind this group called Wines of Danger.


We are looking forward already to the third event!

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Kiwi & Koala

#WW Chronic Cellars Purple Paradise from Paso Robles California

We are always on the lookout for a good drop at a great price. This weeks wine drank at home with dinner that rose above the rest was a cracking drop from Chronic Cellars in Paso Robles. This was a lovely drop that went with Lasagna and BBQ spiced pork chops as well. Probably would go with any BBQ style food as well as pastas.
To quote the winery "BEAUTIFUL, DARK PURPLE HUE WITH INTENSE SMOKY VANILLA, RIPE CHERRIES, WHITE PEPPER, ALL SPICE, NUTMEG, AND CINNAMON ON THE NOSE! SUPER RICH TASTES OF RIPE, JUICY CHERRIES AND STRAWBERRIES, CHOCOLATE, MOCHA, LEATHER AND MARZIPAN! MILD TANNINS AND BALANCED ACIDITY! THE ULTIMATE PARADISE!! $14.99  / WINE CLUB"
We agree with the description in general (like we know best) although we did not find the marzipan in the flavor profile but who really is worried about that? This is a 6-7 wine and **** value.
We went through a tasting at the winery and there are a number of worthy wines that one should, ok could, take home and enjoy or share, that are great drinkers at great prices.

Go by Chronic Cellars in Paso Robles and enjoy the quirky atmosphere and labels as well as the wines and tell em you heard about them here. Cheers!

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Kiwi & Koala

Monterey is extra beautiful in the Fall

With summer in most places winding down where better for a weekend getaway than Monterey. Its late summer and coming next is autumn when the weather is often the best of the year. Its warm days and cool nights with spectacular scenery make it the perfect time of year for a getaway, and unless its a long weekend not very crowded. Take any given weekend and add a day or two to it and have yourselves a great mini vacation.

Heading out on Friday morning;
How to get here is of course determined based on the need to get here fast or enjoy the possible scenic drives. From the North its pretty much 101 South and exit the 156 to Monterey.

From the South there are two main options, Hwy 101 and Hwy 1. Hwy 1 is a spectacular drive but is also an all day adventure in of itself (perhaps another time). This rout is more suited to a stay of more than a few days. With that in mind the exit off of Hwy 101 coming from the South is one of three depending if you wish to taste wine on your way in or not. We would so here is the route we would take. Heading north on Hwy 101 take the Arroyo Seco Rd exit # 301. At the end of the exit go left over the highway and follow the signs to Paraiso Vineyards. They open Friday at 11am. Great spot to relax after your drive and enjoy some nice wines in a nice tasting room. Just up the road is Hahn Winery Tasting room with one of the best views of the valley from their tasting deck. Take a vineyard tour and have a taste. Once done here cruise up the road a bit and stop in Wrath Winery and enjoy some truly premium wines. Your next possible stop is at Luigis in Gonzales. Now you can enjoy a great late lunch at Luigis and then go on into the Monterey Carmel area to your chosen destination. There are lots and lots of choices from the big Hotel Chains and also some local gems, on the beach or in the valleys there are some great spots to stay.

Saturday morning heading out from your hotel base there are a variety of things to do, see and taste all over the area. We have to start somewhere so lets head on out to the rustic Carmel Valley and wander around the Village and grab a bite at the Corkscrew Cafe, Local or Cafe Rustica. Stop in to Joullian Vineyards charming tasting room for a taste of some great local wines and dont forget to go taste some organic wine that will make you a believer at Heller Estate Organic Vineyards. Since your in Cowboy Country stop on by the Cowgirl Winery for a fun tasting in a very country setting or drop in to the East End Row of wineries and enjoy a sampling of Joyce Vineyards or one of their neighbors.
While walking between tastings and lunch check out the art galleries and antique stores scattered around. Finish the day off with dinner at Wills Fargo, a Carmel Valley tradition for over 50 years. If something a little less country is more your style for dinner a stop at Bernardus Lodge for fine dining is on your way out of the Valley. With the high end Marinus Restaurant or a bit more casual Wickets Bistro to choose from this is a great option.

Sunday Morning is time to head into Carmel by the Sea. This is a magical little sea side hamlet that one cannot help but fall in love with. First stop the Carmel Chamber to get a  Carmel Wine Walk by-the-Sea wine tasting passport. This is a Wine Tasting Passport, that for $65 entitles the buyer to one $10 flight at any nine of the fourteen tasting rooms who are part of this experience (a $90 value that never expires).
Now as you wander and enjoy the sights and sounds you can stop from time to time and sample some lovely wines or bubbles at various locations around town. From the original tasting room of Galante Vineyards to the newest at Windy Oaks Estate you wont be disappointed. If you purchase a bottle at any of the passport stops they can set you up with dinner reservations and put a sticker on your bottle to eliminate the corkage fee ($20-25). The list of places to eat and taste in this little town is long and to date we have not found one we would not go back to so explore and get a recommendation from your favorite stop and enjoy. (Tasting Article on Carmel) Don't forget to wander down to Carmel beach for sunset!

Monday morning head out to the coastline and take a walk along the Pacific Grove trails from Lovers Point to Cannery Row. Explore the shops at Cannery Row and have a light lunch at one of the many nice restaurants. To end the Day stop at The Beach House for the early bird dinner starting at 4pm. Get there at 4 and enjoy the outdoor patio with one of the best views in Monterey.

This is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to things to do, taste and see in Monterey.The season for a trip to Monterey will soon be here, so get those couple extra days off and have a wonderful trip to Monterey.

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Sunset on Carmel Beach

What is the correct cellar temperature?

Room temperature is not the temperature of the room you are in...
How often have you been to a restaurant, bar, wine tasting or cellar door, and the red wine is way way too warm. Then when you suggest perhaps they might chill it down a bit, you get the condescending reply that reds are served at 'room temperature'. Its at times like these that our better half's usually grab an arm or kick us under the table as we sometimes on rare occasions have a tendency towards responding with either sarcasm or snarkiness or if the condescending reply is to pointed we may completely spit the dummy and start a lecture. Look, if we just spent $20 on a glass of wine we sure as want to enjoy it. If we ordered a bottle we always ask for an ice bucket to lower the wine temp. For those that know us it must come as a complete shock that we can be a bit picky about our wine, but sometimes it happens.
The temperature of wine as you drink it is fairly important if you want to get the best from it. While there is some dispute as to the exact best, there is a range that is fairly optimal  to best appreciate a wine, whether it be red or white.
Lets take a look at the term room temperature and where some of the miss conception comes in. A lot of people, even in the industry think that red wine should be at room temperature when drunk. Meaning put it on the shelf and when someone orders a red just pull it off the shelf and pour into a glass and drink, no matter what the temperature is. If you are pouring in a restaurant that is possibly about 75 plus degrees you are not doing the red wines any favors.

What's "room temperature," anyway? These days, it's about 73 degrees, which is a far cry from the room temperature of the drafty manor houses of a century ago, where many modern-day wine-drinking habits were born. Actually, 73 is actually way too warm for almost all wine. As a rule, white and sparkling wines are best served well-chilled (42 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit), with sparkling wines and lighter whites at the lower range of the scale and fuller-bodied, richer whites, such as Chardonnay, at the upper range. Red wines should be served at cool room temperature (56 to 65 F.), with lighter, fruitier reds (e.g., Beaujolais and Pinot Noir), at the lower range and fuller-bodied varieties ( e.g., Cabernet, Zinfandel and Syrah, at the upper range.

Certain conditions may dictate exceptions to these guidelines. On a hot days, for example, it's a good idea to slightly chill a full-bodied red to mitigate its alcoholic "heat," which is more evident as the wine warms quickly when the ambient temperature is high. As it is easier for wine to come up to temperature if you start too cool. Conversely, it may be advisable to serve an especially rich white wine at the upper temperature range to ensure its complex aromas and flavors can be fully appreciated, but again you can raise the temperature with the warmth of your hands if it comes a little too cool.

There is also some personal preference and in combination with wine type and style that need to be considered but the general range is fairly spot on.

So the term room temperature goes back a long way to a time when homes were drafty stone buildings and were generally very cold by todays standards. All that aside the fact is there is a temperature range that wine is best to drink in so pay attention to that and just forget the term 'Room Temperature'.

Happy Tasting Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Kiwi & Koala

#WW DaVine Cellars 2012 Barbera, Santa Cruz

One warm and sunny Wednesday afternoon while in Santa Cruz California, a overwhelming urge for some wine came upon me (big surprise right). Knowing where there were some tasting rooms no time was wasted heading over. First one then another then a third, were all closed! AAAAARRRRGGGH... As I started to regain some sense of awareness from the devastated mental state I had been shocked into I saw a sign! No, not like a sign, but an actual sign that read' Wine Tasting OPEN'. An oasis in the desert? Almost... but more like an island. It was the tasting room of MJA Vineyards. This Hawaiian themed tasting room is the perfect place to sit and have a taste or a glass and to hear stories of coffee growing and roasting (story to come). You are welcomed with an aloha and the pleasantries just continue from there.

Marin Artukovich, owner of MJA Vineyards, who is most often found pouring the wine and stories in the tasting room tells of the decision to give his wines their own unique and peculiar names and even genders to help aid in being able to have repeat customers explain the ones they liked. Names like Lucky, Horny, Nosey and Chewy. While tasting, read each tasting note and as you taste and sniff enjoying the wine, determine if you can, whether the wine is of male of female gender. If you get it right, you may even get a second pour.

I tasted trough a range of wines that were all very good and on this day decide on a purchase of the 2012 DaVine Barbera. This lovely medium to medium full bodied wine has all kinds of blue and Black berry notes. All the fruit characters come through on the palate with some added plum and spice and soft integrated tannins, this is one tasty Barbera. With a wonderful round full mouth feel this is one easy drinking wine. Rated *** and a solid 7 on the official scale this one is a real beauty.

We will be going back for more. Go visit this neat tasting room in Santa Cruz and enjoy a bit of Hawaii and wine. Tell em we sent you!

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout.net

Kiwi & Koala

So you want to rent a car in Italy?

So you want to rent a car in Italy? Lets start out by saying we did. We are glad we did. But just know we got a little lucky just by chance and we survived with only two tickets for the same offence at the same location ten minutes apart. Coincidence? We think not...

First off get your car rented and confirmed prior to leaving home. We also would recommend you go through an online operation that has a good reputation. Get your international drivers licence at the DMV. Before you decide you want to live it up with a luxury car for this big trip you need to think again. There were four of us and our luggage for just over two weeks and we were able to use the experience of some friends who had done it all before. Whats the big deal you ask, well the roads in Italy are typically very narrow. Narrow enough in many small towns that two smart cars cannot pass at the same time and its not a curb you will hit but a stone wall or building from a previous century. The four of us and our luggage fit in the Citroen Turbo Diesel equivalent of a Toyota Corolla. Did we mention it was a stick? Don’t drive a stick shift? You might be surprised to know that most Italians do and so the majority of cars in Italy are stick-shift (or manual shift) not automatic, including rentals. That means automatics often have a limited availability, and usually cost more. (Another good reason to book in advance!). We were fine with the stick. Motorcycles and scooters are also available for rent, but just don't. And never, ever try to learn to drive a scooter for the first time in a foreign city. You have been warned.

We should probably also say we did not drive in Rome. Best decision we made. What a nut house. Limited or hidden signage that was hard to find on foot and the typical traffic volume of a big city with the reckless abandonment of driving style usually reserved for a Costco parking lot.  Four lanes around the roundabout with no lane lines. Truly amazing!

Once you have received your car as a rule do not leave the lot before you make sure all your controls are set up in english. Did we mention get a car with GPS. It is a must. We had one in the car that we had the rental car guy change the language from Italian to English because we could not figure it out, and also we brought with us our Tom Tom. We recommend you do the same. Also get a good new map as a backup.

On the road in Italy, signs often won’t indicate north, south, east, or west; instead, they’ll use a city sign. So if you want to drive north from Rome, for example, you might look for a sign for “Firenze” or “Sienna.” As you might expect, this can be incredibly confusing for anyone not intimately familiar with Italian geography (especially when you get to smaller roads, which often indicate their direction with smaller towns and villages).

Roundabouts, intersections, and exits off main roads often have signs indicating restaurants, hotels, and sights of interest… but you’ll have to be a graduate of the Italian Evelyn Wood speed reading College to scan them all let alone figure out where you are going.Then there is the cadence of the driving. What we like to call "road rage" here, with other drivers seeming to be quite upset about your being in their way, is standard procedure on Italian roads, where they see it as a routine part of driving. For many Americans, your concept of courtesy will be seen by Italian drivers as a sign of weakness (we're not joking here)! You better be prepared to get on with it and it is not about speed its more about merging where there is only inches to spare. If you can fit you better go for it. As soon as you see a gap, go for it. Italians expect the unexpected and react swiftly but they're not used to ditherers so whatever you do, do it decisively.

The historic centres of many cities, towns and villages throughout Italy have ZTLs (Limited Traffic Zones). The zones in each place will have its own regulations. Some zones are restricted to certain hours, some to residents only, some to cars with certain permits. Just assume you do not have one and are not allowed in. Not all ZTLs are camera enforced, but in the regions near Florence , Pisa , Siena , Arezzo and Lucca , certainly are. The cameras like the signs are not always obvious. We walked into Luca as we had been warned and it took us a while on foot to find the signs that mention no entry without permit.

When travelling down the motorways (the only way to cover any distance) stay on the right unless you are overtaking (foreign concept to most Americans) or you may get a ticket for impeding traffic. Most motorways have tolls so you should carry €20-30 in coins to speed your progress through the toll booths. While you can pay with cash or credit cards, follow white signs to booths to pay by cash, blue signs to booths to pay by credit card, cash is the fastest. The lanes with yellow signs are for frequent users that have a telepass.

This series of cautions may make it seem a bit daunting and in some ways it is, but at the same time we would not have changed a thing. Dont drive in Rome. Drive in the country. Have two GPS's and a good map and a designated navigator to aid the driver and a backup navigator for when the inevitable happens. Allow a lot more time than you think for even just finding a park can take a lot of time, yes a lot of time. Get the smallest car you and your gear can fit in and carry a lot of coins for the tolls and parking meters and do your daily pre trip homework.

One more thing. The Italians are more than happy to give you directions. If your Italian is good you are set. If, like us both of your Italian words are not to be used in mixed company you get a lot of gesturing along with the most misunderstood words of our trip. Directions in the best Italian english blend with exaggerated hand gestures... Itsa easy, you cannota miss it ... yet we did most of the time.

Ciao Ciao enjoy your drive.

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Kiwi & Koala

Shrimp on the Barbie, Kiwi style at Croad in Paso Robles

It's not that we race back to the same winery twice, but for Croad Vineyards we made an exception! We wanted to show off our new find to our American friends. Actually one is French-American, so  we could call this the "Kiwi, Koala, and Frog,  er..blog". I give up.  No, that's a French line. Anyway, the owner of the winery, Martin Croad is a Kiwi (from New Plymouth) so having visited earlier in the year, showing friends that Kiwis could make, as well as drink wine seems a good a reason as any to come back! Besides we were in the area.

Another beautiful Paso day, and we were warmly greeted by Nicole in the tasting room.  She called Martin to say she had Kiwis in the house. He said great, I'll be right up.  Then she said one was actually an Aussie. We all heard him say "call security" over the tiny phone speaker (not that funny).

Soon we were basking in true Kiwi hospitality, sipping through his delicious red wines - 2009 Pure (syrah), Rei (cab franc, syrah) and Taranaki (Zinfandel and mourvedre). Later we were spoiled with his GSM. All were enjoyed (by some) with crackers dipped in Vegemite.  Yum.  Made Kiwi and Koala homesick.  Made Froggie sick.  It was all so good Kiwi joined the "Kia Ora" wine club.

We must have made a good impression because Martin invited us to their Summer BBQ the following night.  The two of us (Kiwi and Koala) being invited back rarely ever happens!  Resplendent in his Kiwi decal tattoo from Croad, Kiwi arrived with Koala and the significant others in tow. The place was humming, and the first pour was a New Zealand style Sauvignon Blanc. Delish, and refreshing for a warm summers day, overlooking the beautiful Templeton Gap.

Appetizers included a dish neither Kiwi nor Koala had ever had at home. Barbecued shrimp. Who knew. No, seriously never ever growing up had either one of us thrown shrimp on a barbie! Thanks to our good mate Paul Hogan that has now change the perception of Down Under BBQ's for ever. Then we all sat banquet style and enjoyed great BBQ fare with chicken pieces and pork ribs, meat falling off the bone. All accompanied with Croad Pure, Rei, Taranaki, and GSM wines. And least we forget a great rendition of the Star Spangled Banner by the Singing Orthodontist.

Doesn't get much better than that! 

Chris and Trev (Kiwi and Koala) would have stayed until Martin kicked us out, or the wine ran out, but luckily our better, smarter halves made us leave at a relatively respectable time.

For everyone visiting Paso Robles we 'recommend' a visit to Croad and to meet Martin. Nicole is awesome running the tasting room.  So belly up, dip a cracker in the Vegemite tub, and tell em Kiwi, Koala, and Frog sent ya.

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout.net

Kiwi & Koala

And Frog

WW Drinking Thummerer Winery • Eger • Bikavér • Superior • 2009

While rummaging in the wine fridge looking for something, just not sure what, and came across this sexy little Hungarian number from our tasting in San Francisco with the Hungarian Road Show.

A Thummerer Winery • Eger • Bikavér • Superior • 2009

This wine comes from Eger, in northeastern Hungary. This a wine region is best known for its Egri Bikavér wine. Hungary's most famous wine overall, Bikavér (commonly called Bull's Blood) is surely the country's most famous red. The style is a complex blend of several dark skinned grapes and this is the flagship wine of the winery. Superior is only produced in the best vintages. It contains 50% Hungarian varieties and 50% international types. Alcohol content: is 14%. Acidity: 4.9 g/l and its recommended serving temperature is 16-18°C (60-65 deg F).

Bikaver (Bull's Blood) is always a blend of at least three types of vines of 15 approved species. This one has Lemberger (Blaufränkisch) – Cabernet Franc – Merlot. It must spend a minimum of 12 months in wood aging (usually Hungarian oak) and the wine after 18 months must be accepted by a standing committee before it can be released to the market. A nicely balanced wine with earthy tones and a slightly spicy character. Floral nose with wonderful juicy dark fruit and a beautiful softt body with well integrated tannins that add up to a pleasant and long aftertaste. The price is two for **** and is a 6-7 on the scale. This is a great wine for the price. No this is a very nice drinking wine at three times the price.

Happy Wine Adventures,

Cheers,

WineWalkabout

Kiwi & Koala